Who’d have thought that Australia, famous for its almost boringly consistent, good wines, could produce wines that have good years and bad years and in-between years? Well this is what their best winemakers are up to and Jeffrey Grosset is one of these. He makes wine that comes from somewhere (Polish Hill, in the Clare Valley outside Adelaide in this case), not the massive, generic ‘South Eastern Australia’. 2009 was a fantastic year there and this wine has already scored 20/20 from Decanter Magazine, who described it as ‘an all-time great’ that will age well until about 2029. Joe Breen in the Irish Times said ‘Usually Grosset’s bone-dry wines start out austere if immaculately structured, before opening up in time with stunning intensity and length. The 2009, however, is smiling from the get-go, with rich lime-led fruit and great length and balance.’

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